12-22-09 Tuxpan, Mexico

I got a late start, didn't leave till around 11 or so.  Finding the way out of town was an adventure in itself.  Throughout the entire ordeal I never saw a sign for Tuxpan, where I was headed.  I first got some vague directions from the reception desk at the hotel which kinda got me in the right general area.  Upon realizing I was on some little callejon I turned back onto a larger road and rode up alongside a taxi driver and yelled, 'Quisiera ir a Tuxpan!" He pointed behind him. "Cuantos kilometros!?" I asked. "Cuatro, Cinco..." I honked my horn twice in thanks and pulled a U-turn then rode up next to a moped.  I asked him the same question and he pointed straight ahead.  "Buena motocicleta!" He said pointing at my bike.  "Gracias!"  I hollered back.  he gestured for me to follow him and revved his little bike and did some fancy swerves.  I fell in behind him for several minutes before he pointed to an exit for me to take.  It worked!  A huge suspension bridge took me over a wide river and offered a great view of the city behind me.

I rode for about an hour before stopping at a Pemex, the only gas stations in Mexico.  I talked to an older guy for a bit, he warned me that the roads are particularly dangerous this time of year as there are many people traveling and all are in a hurry.  He went on to say apologetically that Mexicans typically drive carelessly and have little respect for others on the road- nothing I didn't already know.

Within a few miles I came upon quite the traffic jam.  Cars were backed up for about 2 miles which took about an hour to get through.  I't was hot and humid and my clutch hand was cramping up a times.  There had been a head-on accident, no apparent injuries, but a lot of confused Mexicans standing around wondering what to do next.  Upon leaving the accident scene, I stood up on the bike and rode for several miles with the wind blowing through my jacket and pants, the cooling sensation was almost worth the hour wait.

Upon getting to the outskirts of Tuxpan traffic was stopped by a Police roadblock.  I've come across a few us of these already.  They're soliciting money from cars, likely for a Tecate fund. Thus far I've just shrugged and rode past them, jumping over their little speed bump made out of tire tread.  This time was different.  the police man stood infront of me and demanded I pay him.  I glared at him through my tinted face shield.  He pointed for me to pull off the side of the road.  I put the bike in neutral, dropped the kickstand, took off my glove and dug in my tankbag for a few pesos which I dropped in his palm.  "Cabron..." I muttered and sped off.

I was in search of El Posada San Ignacio which nobody seemed familiar with.  Finally an older gentleman gave me some directions to where he thought it might be.  When I got to where I thought I was close I asked a few more people and was given more directions.  The roads were not perpendicular, full of narrow one-ways with coarse sewer gates made out of railroad rails, people darting across the street and narrow scooters blasting past me on either side, not much of a relaxing ride.

I repeated my process of asking people perhaps 10 times and got to see various parts of the city.  At times when I'd ask a person and they didn't know, they'd stop people along the street and ask until an answer was given, rather nice of them.  It seems as though the locals feel obligated to give me some kind of an answer, but aren't terribly concerned with its accuracy.

I don't look at street signs as it's pointless.  Streets change from block to block.  One minute you're on Av. Alvarez then you're on Centro then Chingadera all without making a single turn.

I eventually saw the hotel; unfortunately it was down a one-way street.  There weren't any cars coming so I gunned it and instantly heard a roar from pedestrians.  Sorry 'bout that guys...well....not really.... I was surprised that amidst all the commotion and all the careless driving that there still seem to be some traffic laws that people adhere to.

The hotel was tidy and small with a mural-covered courtyard and parrots squawking, nice little place.  I then set out as I usually do upon getting to a new place by walking increasingly larger circles around some easily-visible object, in this case, a large cathedral town in the plaza.  I eventually stopped at a little cafe to get something to eat.

My Spanish is clearly not what it used to be, but I'm sure it will come back as I haven't spoken a word of English since crossing the border.  My lackluster Spanish was particularly evident when I ordered a mushroom taco instead of a shrimp one.  Champinones vs Camarones. Elementary stuff here....  The camarero gave me a strange look when I ordered the taco and asked if I'd like anything else on it, he suggested steak.  I agreed thinking it would be kinda like a Mexican surf n turf.  Though not what I had in mind, it was still good.