12-20-09 Mexico border crossing

Before leaving Brownsville I topped off my tank and got some food and water for the road.  I didn't want to stop till well past the border town of Matamoros.  I hit the Mexican border around noon where I had to first pay $2.50 to leave the States.  Once on Mexican soil I had to obtain my vehicle permit at a small building at the border.  I waited in a sweaty room with about 40 other people, I was the only pale-face in sight.

I first had to obtain a tourist visa via a short line.  The woman asked where I was headed.  "Argentina" I responded.  She looked up without moving her head and said, "Muy lejos...."  (very far).  She then asked me where I was from. Upon answering she quickly asked me why I speak like a Mexican.  So I told her of my time spent at the mine in Chihuahua and she seemed pleased.

Finally it was my turn to deal with the crotchety old guy whose entire right side of his glasses were missing.  I had to show my original title, registration, passport, driver's license and Mexican insurance before paying an entry fee of about $20.  I got my proper stamps and permits with no problem and was on my way.

The border town was a total dump, as expected.  Devoid of all vegetation and trash blowing around.  Not some place I'd like to stay very long. I quickly found the proper highway leading southbound after asking directions from a man who was selling seeds in traffic.

The driving rules here are quite different from how they were in Chihuahua a few years ago.  There is a double-yellow which kinda separates traffic.  On each side of this there is a lane as well as what looks like a wide bike lane.  These lanes are separated by a dotted white line.

If there is a car behind you then you straddle the dotted white line and they pass within inches of your mirror.  If you're in a line of traffic, however, then most people don't ride on the white line, this then causes the passing car to veer into oncomming traffic, who then swerves out of the way into their little bike lane.  When the passing car wants to get back into the lane because of an impending oncomming car, then he simply cuts in.  If you're next to him when he cuts in then you must move into the bike lane.

I quickly realized that getting passed was rather dangerous so I opted to be the one passing.  I drafted in behind a large black Mercedes with tinted windows who seemed to know what he was doing .  We rode together for about an hour, speeding up to pass vehicles in front of us then pulling off onto the dotted white when we weren't passing and sometimes swerving into our bike lane to dodge oncomming traffic.

The speeds down here are quite higher than back home, limits are posted at 100km/h though the Mercedes and I flirted with the 200km/h mark at times, pushing the upper limits of the bike.  Though going fast, no unnecessary chances were taken.  That being said, I do realize that I need to ride safe.  I'm sure I'll find a good technique of riding after a few days down here.

I ended up spending the night in the little pueblo of Soto la Marina at a so-so motel.  There were tons of Christmas decorations up in town, my favorite being the rather dark-skinned Santa.