4-24-10 San Sebastian, Chile

First off, a few new videos that I've only recently been able to upload due to slow internet elsewhere...
Vilcabamba, Ecuador-
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gf_hcyTjEJA&feature=channel   

Ruta 40, Argentina-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6GchrPjBMU&feature=channel  

Costa Rica-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bOADkk2QjI&feature=channel   

Salar near Iquique, Chile-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uvdikbO42Q&feature=channel    


We left Ushuaia and were happy to find the roads wet without any ice. Garibaldi Pass had snow on either side, and was cold but the road was just fine. Winds started picking up as we descended from the pass to the point where we had to slow down considerably, Mark was getting battered as usual due to his light bike.
We made it to the border of Chile at San Sebastian and checked out of Argentina though had some confusion as the lady thought that Mark and I were riding together on one bike. No, lady, that’s not correct. At the customs desk to cross into Chile we were greeted in great Chilean fashion by some cranky guy who told us to fill out some paperwork but refused us the use of a pen for a while.

He asked us where we were going to which I replied San Sebastian, which is the little border town. He wasn’t happy with my answer and again asked me where we were going in Chile so I spelled it out nice and clear for the guy, I told him that we were going to sleep 200 meters further down the road at a hospedaje then the next day we would take a ferry back to the mainland then go up to Rio Gallegos. His questions stopped and he went back to work poking at his computer before stamping my passport with more force than was needed.

Mark had a worse time with his customs official than I did, though. I don’t want to handicap his Spanish education by cutting in and offering help all the time so I’ll frequently just sit back and watch the hilarity ensue. Mark got good and riled up and gave the desk a solid kick. Mark has taken on a bit of an Arab look to himself with a stout beard and frequently pulls his balaclava up on top of his head, resembling a turban.


A few yards past the border crossing we found the little hospedaje. They had room for us in a small bunk room which was heated by a cylindrical fireplace which was of poor design and never worked well. There were two dampers on top of it, both the size of a hockey puck with a chimney protruding between them. The top of it was like an old-fashioned cookstove that could be picked up to drop wood in. The problem was when the dampers were opened to let air in then smoke would pour out. When we’d turn the dampers down enough to make the smoke stop then the fire would all but go out. We chose to be smoky and warm with a cracked door rather than completely cold.

This morning we woke up to terrible wind which was shaking the entire house. Mark and I walked behind the little house to check on the bikes and found Mark’s had blown over in the night. We stood it upright and wheeled it to a more protective place as the wind had shifted directions during the night. We found some scrap-wood and braced the bike so it couldn’t fall down again. It’s worked thus far.

The wind was around 100kph according to a trucker we talked to with gusts going well beyond that. He and several other truckers were waiting at the little restaurant next to the hospedaje as they said it was too dangerous to keep going with high winds. On the way down a week ago we saw a semi blown over on the side of the road so we thought it would be best to wait as well.

We’ve had a bit of a boring day, actually. Let’s see, we drank a lot of tea that we warmed on the smoky fire then had a big burger in the café nextdoor. I got caught up on some writing and sorting through photos which we copy to my external hard drive and to Mark’s for backups. I also fixed one of my fog lights whose bracket had broken in a crash in the salar in northern Chile. I used three of the hose clamps that I bought in Guatemala a few months ago and the light now works fine. I also cleaned and oiled my Leatherman, reorganized my gear and ate a chocolate bar. It's been a very, very stressful day.

I also got the chance to do a bit of research on the upcomming towns along the Atlantic side of Patagonia.  My findings aren't that promising, but Buenos Aires should make up for the dismal week we're about to endure.  According to my Lonely Plantet guidebook the towns that we'll pass through are-
 
Rio Gallegos..."Certainly not the world cup of tourist destinations."
Comodoro Rivadavia...."It's a homely city with busy streets and the ugliest cathedral you'll likely ever see."
Trelew..."Is not an exciting city."
Rio Grande..."This bleak and windy town..."